Ingredient Spotlight : Azelaic Acid

October 7, 2019

What is Azelaic Acid?

 

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid, it is naturally derived from grains, and is a white powder in its natural form. Azelaic acid is produced by a yeast known as Malassezia furfur, which naturally lives on the skins surface. It is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory so works to reduce rosacea and acne prone skin. Alongside this azelaic acid brightens and lightens the skin.

 

What are the benefits of Azelaic Acid?

  • Unblocks pores and refines the skins surface

  • Evens out skin texture

  • Reduces pigmentation caused from sun damage

  • Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

 

How does Azelaic Acid work?

 

 

This image displays the effects of Azelaic Acid (AzA) or keratinocytes.

  1. Decreases ATP synthesis by inhibiting respiratory chain molecules in the mitochondrion.

  2. Reversibly inhibits DNA synthesis and cell proliferation in keratinocytes.

  3. Reduces filaggrin expression in keratinocytes

 

Azelaic acid is an anti-inflammatory ingredient, it helps to reduce the bumps, swelling and redness in acne prone skin, and prevents the formations of comedones. It works to treat the active acne by killing the bacteria that infects pores and decreases the production of keratin. It reduces expressions of kallikrein-5 (KLK-5) and pro-inflammatory cathelicidins such as LL-37. Azelaic acid also works to brighten and lighten the skin and reduce pigmentation by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is needed for the production of melanin.

 

Which products in Your Signature Range contain Azelaic Acid?

 

Illuminate – Skin Lightening Serum

5% Azelaic Acid, 2% Alpha Arbutin, 2% Glutathione

This highly active serum provides a poly-focal, clinical, approach to areas of skin discoloration. It contains, azelaic acid to help calm inflammation, alpha-arbutin and glutathione to inhibit melanin synthesis, the main cause of pigmentation, together with vitamins E (and) C to provide antioxidant protection. Apply liberally to areas of concern at night-time only. 

 

More Ingredient Spotlight blogs will be coming to our social media shortly, keep an eye out to stay in the loop!

 

If you would like to sample or add Illuminate into your range, please contact info@5squirrels.com.

 

References

 

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1712709

https://medlineplus.gov/druginfo/meds/a603020.html

https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Azelaic-acid%3A-Properties-and-mode-of-action.-Sieber-Hegel/89fe5c8c86b907ce1b295bee59ba82e66ab14f9e/figure/2

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